FENDI HONORS THE SPIRITUALITY OF THE ETERNAL CITY FOR SPRING 2022 HAUTE COUTURE

Kim Jones plays with celestial themes and exposed underpinnings.

After making a movie to present his second Fendi couture collection, Kim Jones returned to the runway in Paris on Thursday to unveil his third couture outing for the Italian fashion house. And this season, the designer is still fascinated with Rome, turning to the bones of the ancient buildings dotting the Eternal City to inform the well-constructed garments that are made to last — much like those in the Italian capital.

A video of moving clouds was the focal point of the sci-fi-inspired runway, and models stepped onto it as if walking out from the heavens. Religious or not, there was a spiritual, dreamlike quality to their entrances that ties into the idea of Rome as a sacred place. The show notes describe the couture lineup as “an army of empresses whose divine purity is imbued with celestial power.” That means high-shine sequins accentuating the vertical lines of strong, fluid silhouettes. The shimmering, warrior-like gowns, many with floor-sweeping trains and high-low hemlines, are so fitted to the body, they give the models an otherworldly appeal.

From stellar dresses to literally statuesque creations, Jones gives classical Roman statues the couture treatment by hand-painting them onto sheared mink and velvet. And while the result is more museum-worthy than red carpet must-have, what’s intriguing about his latest offering are the exposed underpinnings: Jones strips back the layers on various pieces to reveal the intricate boning that goes into making a couture-level garment.

Jones’ previous couture collections possessed a soft, wafting quality, but his most recent presentation is a decisive departure, one that showcases female superheroes and is rooted in strength. “That’s what my vision for Fendi is all about,” Jones explained in the show notes, “celebrating the power of women.”

See the full Fendi Spring 2022 Haute Couture collection in the gallery below.