Paris Paris French Restaurant
By Paris Paris is first and foremost an all-day wine bar. Co-owners Jonny Poon and Jesse Fader have always taken pride in serving great wine alongside their elevated versions of late-night fare like fried chicken and pizza at Bar Fancy and Super point, and they further indulge that passion here with the help of partner Gani Shqueir.
To do so, they enlisted the help of Krysta Oben of Grape Witches, and Nick Morra (formerly of Chantecler, La Banane, and Enoteca Sociale) designed for them a menu of playful, accessible plates.
The 1500-square foot space used to be home to Cooper Cole Gallery before it migrated to Dupont, but now houses plants, wood, and kitschy knick-knacks that recall Super point decor.
Two added skylights bring a natural glow to the front forty-seat dining area complete with a beautiful swooping wood bar and other woodwork (including bread boxes for house sourdough) by local Graham Waliczek.
A second bar and private dining space with an open kitchen take up the rear.
House bread with scrumptiously salty and rich whipped butter ($5) is a must, made fresh by a baker from Woodlot, crusty on the outside, and elastic on the inside.
Fried crab claws ($8 each) are inspired by dim sum, snow crab claws enveloped in a delicate shrimp and scallop mousse then breaded and deep-fried until puffy and golden.
Prosciutto cotto ($13) speaks to Morra’s background of putting together ham plates in France, but using salty, floppy Italian cotto. Chicory, a sweet and viscous house vincotto, breadcrumbs, and herbs harmonize for a light and colorful but bold plate.
Roast half chicken ($18) is inspired by the churrasqueira across from Superpoint on Ossington where Fader eats multiple times a week.
The chicken is cured for a week similar to the way duck is treated so the skin is sticky and crispy, served bathing in a spicy piri piri they make from chicken fat and spices.
Whole roasted oyster mushroom ($13) is a bit of a cheeky move seeing as it’s a large vegetable absolutely dripping in chicken gravy, but the spongy mushroom soaks it all up perfectly. This and the chicken would make an inexpensive and well-balanced shared meal.
Fries ($7) could be considered a side or bar snack, again playing a tongue-in-cheek little trick by putting the hand-cut beauties seasoned with thyme and grey salt in a paper basket.
A cloudy, delicate Youngster pinot gris/Neuberger blend ($17 a glass) is named for its 2017 vintage, emblematic of the natural wines you can try here.
A Kalimotxo ($10) is a Spanish-style cocktail of red wine and Mexican Coca-Cola, unexpectedly refreshing with the maltiness of the Coke undercutting the wine.
Food is served from noon to 4:30 and 6 to midnight, with light snacks like olives in between and late at night. Sam James coffee is also available during the day.
